Question
One of the children at my preschool briefly chewed on a white gall from an oak leaf. I am concerned that other children might see these white berry-like things and try to eat them. Are they dangerous or poisonous? Thanks for your help. Karen.
Answer
No they are not poisonous or dangerous. They are formed by an insect that lays its eggs on the leaf surface and secretes a chemical that causes the leaf cells to expend over the eggs. Eating them could involve eating either the eggs or the small larvae form of the tiny wasp. Neither one would harm a person but can not be too tasty. Maybe tell the kids that if they eat one they are eating a bug and this should bring Yucks and faces. Most kids will not eat a bug. But is is a source of protein (:
Sunday, March 14, 2010
peach tree
Question
I have a peach tree in a pot. When is the best time to transplant? and does it need more or less son?
Thank you
Maxine Evans
Answer
The best time would be early spring after the last frost. Peach tree do best in full sunlight. The planting area for a peach tree should be a minimum of 5 feet in diameter, and the soil should be tilled at a depth ranging between 10 and 12 inches. It is recommended that materials such as compost, manure, grass clippings, and leaves are mixed in. Doing so will greatly improve drainage, texture, and nutrient content.
When planting a peach tree, dig a hole in the center of the prepared location. Plant the tree so the bud union is approximately one inch above the soil. If a peach tree is planted too deep it may be injured or killed. Fill in the hole, tamp down the surrounding soil, and finish by moderately watering. Fertilize a peach tree a week to ten days after planting and again approximately a month later. Use 8 ounces of 10-10-10 fertilizer and water in good.
I have a peach tree in a pot. When is the best time to transplant? and does it need more or less son?
Thank you
Maxine Evans
Answer
The best time would be early spring after the last frost. Peach tree do best in full sunlight. The planting area for a peach tree should be a minimum of 5 feet in diameter, and the soil should be tilled at a depth ranging between 10 and 12 inches. It is recommended that materials such as compost, manure, grass clippings, and leaves are mixed in. Doing so will greatly improve drainage, texture, and nutrient content.
When planting a peach tree, dig a hole in the center of the prepared location. Plant the tree so the bud union is approximately one inch above the soil. If a peach tree is planted too deep it may be injured or killed. Fill in the hole, tamp down the surrounding soil, and finish by moderately watering. Fertilize a peach tree a week to ten days after planting and again approximately a month later. Use 8 ounces of 10-10-10 fertilizer and water in good.
Posted by
Beacon Lee
conk on giant, old oak tree
Question
Jim,
We live in the coastal area of South Carolina and have numerous, very old (200 year range), huge (2 to 3 stories high), oak trees in our yard. One of the trees had a very large limb removed about 18 months ago by our area's local oak tree expert. It was healthy, just overhanging the roof of our house, and was removed just as a precaution before the house was placed on the market. Now it seems we have a fungus conk growing out of the tree about 6 feet up. We have been advised to do two things: 1. trim back the other large limbs on that side of the tree to remove some weight, as well as cable them (there is already cabling and lightning protection very high up, and 2. fertilize one gallon per every inch of tree diameter to promote more healthy growth. We are very paranoid about losing this tree as it is the focal point of our yard and absolutely massive. He does not indication that he would put chemicals on the tree to kill the fungus, nor does he want to fill it with any material if there are hollow spots. What advice can you give us before we undertake a rather expensive treatment for this precious tree? I do have photos if you have a way to receive them. Thank you.
Answer
Was the limb that was removed hollow or mussy or was the wood attached to the trunk solid? If the limb was hollow this would indicate that the decay fungi that seem to be growing in the woody part of the tree has grown up the trunk a distance. The conk is the fruiting body of a decay fungi. These fungi enter the tree through a wound and over many years can decay the inside woody cells of the tree. This can make the tree hollow. I would say that the decay fungi has decayed the wood up to at least the 6 foot level on the trunk.
This is not mean that the tree is a hazard and will fall at any time. trees can and do live many many years as hollow trunks. The decay fungi only infects dead cells and will not kill the tree. The strength of the tree may suffer over time--if upper limbs start to break and if these are hollow than the decay fungi has grown up into the crown and the hazard maybe the fallen limbs. There is a very low chance that the entire tree will fall over. Unless you are having large limbs break and these are hollow I would not cable or prune back the limbs. Pruning the limbs back can cause an entry point for more fungi.
I would fertilize the tree--I recommend that you use 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. IF you fertilize just before a rain storm you will not need to water. Do this now and again in the spring and then once a year.
I agree that decay fungi can not be treated with a fungicide. It is like a decayed tooth you would have to excavate all the decay down to good wood and this is impossible with a tree since the decay is inside the tree trunk. Filling any hollow spots is not recommended.
Sometimes it is difficult to see all about a tree without being there. I think based on what I understand I would fertilize the tree and watch it over the years. And if the upper branches start to break off from the decay fungi I would then think about cabling the branches but I do not thing I would prune the branches back. The cabling would keep the branch from dropping and landing on something. The pruning would do not harm than good.
Jim,
We live in the coastal area of South Carolina and have numerous, very old (200 year range), huge (2 to 3 stories high), oak trees in our yard. One of the trees had a very large limb removed about 18 months ago by our area's local oak tree expert. It was healthy, just overhanging the roof of our house, and was removed just as a precaution before the house was placed on the market. Now it seems we have a fungus conk growing out of the tree about 6 feet up. We have been advised to do two things: 1. trim back the other large limbs on that side of the tree to remove some weight, as well as cable them (there is already cabling and lightning protection very high up, and 2. fertilize one gallon per every inch of tree diameter to promote more healthy growth. We are very paranoid about losing this tree as it is the focal point of our yard and absolutely massive. He does not indication that he would put chemicals on the tree to kill the fungus, nor does he want to fill it with any material if there are hollow spots. What advice can you give us before we undertake a rather expensive treatment for this precious tree? I do have photos if you have a way to receive them. Thank you.
Answer
Was the limb that was removed hollow or mussy or was the wood attached to the trunk solid? If the limb was hollow this would indicate that the decay fungi that seem to be growing in the woody part of the tree has grown up the trunk a distance. The conk is the fruiting body of a decay fungi. These fungi enter the tree through a wound and over many years can decay the inside woody cells of the tree. This can make the tree hollow. I would say that the decay fungi has decayed the wood up to at least the 6 foot level on the trunk.
This is not mean that the tree is a hazard and will fall at any time. trees can and do live many many years as hollow trunks. The decay fungi only infects dead cells and will not kill the tree. The strength of the tree may suffer over time--if upper limbs start to break and if these are hollow than the decay fungi has grown up into the crown and the hazard maybe the fallen limbs. There is a very low chance that the entire tree will fall over. Unless you are having large limbs break and these are hollow I would not cable or prune back the limbs. Pruning the limbs back can cause an entry point for more fungi.
I would fertilize the tree--I recommend that you use 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. IF you fertilize just before a rain storm you will not need to water. Do this now and again in the spring and then once a year.
I agree that decay fungi can not be treated with a fungicide. It is like a decayed tooth you would have to excavate all the decay down to good wood and this is impossible with a tree since the decay is inside the tree trunk. Filling any hollow spots is not recommended.
Sometimes it is difficult to see all about a tree without being there. I think based on what I understand I would fertilize the tree and watch it over the years. And if the upper branches start to break off from the decay fungi I would then think about cabling the branches but I do not thing I would prune the branches back. The cabling would keep the branch from dropping and landing on something. The pruning would do not harm than good.
Posted by
Beacon Lee
Black and Chestnut Oak Root Systems
Question
Jim, I understand that these two trees do not have a tap root system. To avoid damage to either, what is the minimum safe distance that I can build a home with a 2 foot sub-foundation? To avoid removing the Chestnut I am allowing a five foot clearance on three sides, the fourth side would be open. Would that be sufficient?
Thanks, Steve
Answer
It does not have a tap root and the roots spread about 1 1/2 time the distance of the branches. At maturity the branch spread is about 40 feet meaning 20 feet from the trunk. A 5 foot clearance on three sides is too close to build a structure. I would think you will cause the tree to dieback many of its limbs and foliage and may even kill the tree. IF the tree lives there is a good chance that the roots system will effect you foundation since it really has no way to grow except toward the structure. the root system is in the first 2 feet of soil and if you cut more then 25-30 percent of the root system you will greatly damage the tree, In this case you will have cut maybe 50-70 percent of the roots system. It will be better to remove the tree before you build rather than try and take it down dead later, OR change your building plans. Sorry.
Jim, I understand that these two trees do not have a tap root system. To avoid damage to either, what is the minimum safe distance that I can build a home with a 2 foot sub-foundation? To avoid removing the Chestnut I am allowing a five foot clearance on three sides, the fourth side would be open. Would that be sufficient?
Thanks, Steve
Answer
It does not have a tap root and the roots spread about 1 1/2 time the distance of the branches. At maturity the branch spread is about 40 feet meaning 20 feet from the trunk. A 5 foot clearance on three sides is too close to build a structure. I would think you will cause the tree to dieback many of its limbs and foliage and may even kill the tree. IF the tree lives there is a good chance that the roots system will effect you foundation since it really has no way to grow except toward the structure. the root system is in the first 2 feet of soil and if you cut more then 25-30 percent of the root system you will greatly damage the tree, In this case you will have cut maybe 50-70 percent of the roots system. It will be better to remove the tree before you build rather than try and take it down dead later, OR change your building plans. Sorry.
Posted by
Beacon Lee
Root Trauma
Question
I've had to have a Michelia Alba dug up. Due to walls and sidewalks, the roots were pretty severely cut and although this just happened and the tree looks good, I'm afraid I'm going to loose it. As I love this tree, are there steps I can take to help it live such as trimming, topping, ???
Answer
The roots should not be allowed to dry out. Plant the tree in a hole twice the size of the roots and fill with good top soil or potting soil. Mulch around the tree with not more than 3 inches deep of organic mulch not piled up on the trunk. Water every other day with 1 inch of water-place a pan under the tree and turn the sprinkler on and when the pan has 1 inch of water in it stop. Do this for a month then every fourth day. Do not fertilize or prune the tree back.
I've had to have a Michelia Alba dug up. Due to walls and sidewalks, the roots were pretty severely cut and although this just happened and the tree looks good, I'm afraid I'm going to loose it. As I love this tree, are there steps I can take to help it live such as trimming, topping, ???
Answer
The roots should not be allowed to dry out. Plant the tree in a hole twice the size of the roots and fill with good top soil or potting soil. Mulch around the tree with not more than 3 inches deep of organic mulch not piled up on the trunk. Water every other day with 1 inch of water-place a pan under the tree and turn the sprinkler on and when the pan has 1 inch of water in it stop. Do this for a month then every fourth day. Do not fertilize or prune the tree back.
Posted by
Beacon Lee
river birch vs drake elm
Question
I had 2 river birch trees about 6' from my house. They died last winter from a hard freeze. I just spoke to someone about replacing them and they suggested I plant a drake elm instead of a river birch because of the root system being so close to the house. What is your opinion?
Answer
The drake elm has a spread of about 20 feet at maturity which would mean the roots spread about 10-20 feet from the trunk. The problem will be the limbs rubbing on the house. The roots should be be a problem. River birch river seek water more aggressive than the elm. I would go with a small tree--check with your local nursery for a tree species that is either small or a dwarf variety. It would suit the space better.
I had 2 river birch trees about 6' from my house. They died last winter from a hard freeze. I just spoke to someone about replacing them and they suggested I plant a drake elm instead of a river birch because of the root system being so close to the house. What is your opinion?
Answer
The drake elm has a spread of about 20 feet at maturity which would mean the roots spread about 10-20 feet from the trunk. The problem will be the limbs rubbing on the house. The roots should be be a problem. River birch river seek water more aggressive than the elm. I would go with a small tree--check with your local nursery for a tree species that is either small or a dwarf variety. It would suit the space better.
Posted by
Beacon Lee
Weeping Cherry Tree
Question
I bought a weeping cherry tree about a month ago. The nursery that I bought it from gave me directions on how to plant and how to water since it was new.. I did as the directions said and now a month later the leaves are turning yellow and falling off.. Is my tree dying and if not will the leaves that fell off grow back? Please help with any advice. I paid alot for this tree and I am almost sick that it may be dying.. thanks
Answer
You can check to see if the tree is dead by starting near the top on an upper outer limb and scrape a small bit of bark off the twig. If the color under the bark is green the branch is still alive at this point on the branch. If the color under the bark is not green --brown- the branch is dead at this point on the branch. If brown continue down the branch scraping at intervals until you find green or reach the trunk. If you find green the tree should leaf back out next spring. tree will go through a shock when planted and loose some of their leaves. I would check with the nursery about their policy of guaranteeing the tree will live. IF the time will run out by next spring I would tell them you want to bring the tree back for one that is a live. If the time is after next spring wait and see what develops then.
I bought a weeping cherry tree about a month ago. The nursery that I bought it from gave me directions on how to plant and how to water since it was new.. I did as the directions said and now a month later the leaves are turning yellow and falling off.. Is my tree dying and if not will the leaves that fell off grow back? Please help with any advice. I paid alot for this tree and I am almost sick that it may be dying.. thanks
Answer
You can check to see if the tree is dead by starting near the top on an upper outer limb and scrape a small bit of bark off the twig. If the color under the bark is green the branch is still alive at this point on the branch. If the color under the bark is not green --brown- the branch is dead at this point on the branch. If brown continue down the branch scraping at intervals until you find green or reach the trunk. If you find green the tree should leaf back out next spring. tree will go through a shock when planted and loose some of their leaves. I would check with the nursery about their policy of guaranteeing the tree will live. IF the time will run out by next spring I would tell them you want to bring the tree back for one that is a live. If the time is after next spring wait and see what develops then.
Posted by
Beacon Lee
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