Oak Tree galls

Question
One of the children at my preschool briefly chewed on a white gall from an oak leaf. I am concerned that other children might see these white berry-like things and try to eat them. Are they dangerous or poisonous?  Thanks for your help.  Karen.


Answer
No they are not poisonous or dangerous. They are formed by an insect that lays its eggs on the leaf surface and secretes a chemical that causes the leaf cells to expend over the eggs. Eating them could involve eating either the eggs or the small larvae form of the tiny wasp. Neither one would harm a person but can not be too tasty. Maybe tell the kids that if they eat one they are eating a bug and this should bring Yucks and faces. Most kids will not eat a bug. But is is a source of protein (:

peach tree

Question
I have a peach tree in a pot. When is the best time to transplant? and does it need more or less son?

Thank you

Maxine Evans


Answer
The best time would be early spring after the last frost. Peach tree do best in full sunlight. The planting area for a peach tree should be a minimum of 5 feet in diameter, and the soil should be tilled at a depth ranging between 10 and 12 inches. It is recommended that materials such as compost, manure, grass clippings, and leaves are mixed in. Doing so will greatly improve drainage, texture, and nutrient content.





When planting a peach tree, dig a hole in the center of the prepared location. Plant the tree so the bud union is approximately one inch above the soil. If a peach tree is planted too deep it may be injured or killed. Fill in the hole, tamp down the surrounding soil, and finish by moderately watering.  Fertilize a peach tree a week to ten days after planting and again approximately a month later. Use 8 ounces of 10-10-10 fertilizer and water in good.  

conk on giant, old oak tree

Question
Jim,

We live in the coastal area of South Carolina and have numerous, very old (200 year range), huge (2 to 3 stories high), oak trees in our yard.  One of the trees had a very large limb removed about 18 months ago by our area's local oak tree expert.  It was healthy, just overhanging the roof of our house, and was removed just as a precaution before the house was placed on the market. Now it seems we have a fungus conk growing out of the tree about 6 feet up. We have been advised to do two things:  1.  trim back the other large limbs on that side of the tree to remove some weight, as well as cable them (there is already cabling and lightning protection very high up, and 2.  fertilize one gallon per every inch of tree diameter to promote more healthy growth.  We are very paranoid about losing this tree as it is the focal point of our yard and absolutely massive.  He does not indication that he would put chemicals on the tree to kill the fungus, nor does he want to fill it with any material if there are hollow spots.  What advice can you give us before we undertake a rather expensive treatment for this precious tree? I do have photos if you have a way to receive them.  Thank you.


Answer
Was the limb that was removed hollow or mussy or was the wood attached to the trunk solid? If the limb was hollow this would indicate that the decay fungi that seem to be growing in the woody part of the tree has grown up the trunk a distance.  The conk is the fruiting body of a decay fungi. These fungi enter the tree through a wound and over many years can decay the inside woody cells of the tree. This can make the tree hollow. I would say that the decay fungi has decayed the wood up to at least the 6 foot level on the trunk.  



This is not mean that the tree is a hazard and will fall at any time. trees can and do live many many years as hollow trunks. The decay fungi only infects dead cells and will not kill the tree. The strength of the tree may suffer over time--if upper limbs start to break and if these are hollow than the decay fungi has grown up into the crown and the hazard maybe the fallen limbs. There is a very low chance that the entire tree will fall over. Unless you are having large limbs break and these are hollow I would not cable or prune back the limbs. Pruning the limbs back can cause an entry point for more fungi.



I would fertilize the tree--I recommend that you use 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. IF you fertilize just before a rain storm you will not need to water. Do this now and again in the spring and then once a year.



I agree that decay fungi can not be treated with a fungicide. It is like a decayed tooth you would have to excavate all the decay down to good wood and this is impossible with a tree since the decay is inside the tree trunk. Filling any hollow spots is not recommended.



Sometimes it is difficult to see all about a tree without being there.  I think based on what I understand I would fertilize the tree and watch it over the years. And if the upper branches start to break off from the decay fungi I would then think about cabling the branches but I do not thing I would prune the branches back. The cabling would keep the branch from dropping and landing on something. The pruning would do not harm than good.

Black and Chestnut Oak Root Systems

Question
Jim, I understand that these two trees do not have a tap root system. To avoid damage to either, what is the minimum safe distance that I can build a home with a 2 foot sub-foundation? To avoid removing the Chestnut I am allowing a five foot clearance on three sides, the fourth side would be open. Would that be sufficient?



Thanks, Steve




Answer
It does not have a tap root and the roots spread about 1 1/2 time the distance of the branches. At maturity the branch spread is about 40 feet meaning 20 feet from the trunk. A 5 foot clearance on three sides is too close to build a structure. I would think you will cause the tree to dieback many of its limbs and foliage and may even kill the tree. IF the tree lives there is a good chance that the roots system will effect you foundation since it really has no way to grow except toward the structure. the root system is in the first 2 feet of soil and if you cut more then 25-30 percent of the root system you will greatly damage the tree, In this case you will have cut maybe 50-70 percent of the roots system. It will be better to remove the tree before you build rather than try and take it down dead later, OR change your building plans. Sorry.

Root Trauma

Question
I've had to have a Michelia Alba dug up.  Due to walls and sidewalks, the roots were pretty severely cut and although this just happened and the tree looks good, I'm afraid I'm going to loose it.  As I love this tree, are there steps I can take to help it live such as trimming, topping, ???




Answer
The roots should not be allowed to dry out. Plant the tree in a hole twice the size of the roots and fill with good top soil or potting soil. Mulch around the tree with not more than 3 inches deep of organic mulch not piled up on the trunk. Water every other day with 1 inch of water-place a pan under the tree and turn the sprinkler on and when the pan has 1 inch of water in it stop. Do this for a month then every fourth day. Do not fertilize or prune the tree back.

river birch vs drake elm

Question
I had 2 river birch trees about 6' from my house. They died last winter from a hard freeze. I just spoke to someone about replacing them and they suggested I plant a drake elm instead of a river birch because of the root system being so close to the house. What is your opinion?


Answer
The drake elm has a spread of about 20 feet at maturity which would mean the roots spread about 10-20 feet from the trunk. The problem will be the limbs rubbing on the house. The roots should be be a problem. River birch river seek water more aggressive than the elm. I would go with a small tree--check with your local nursery for a tree species that is either small or a dwarf variety. It would suit the space better.

Weeping Cherry Tree

Question
I bought a weeping cherry tree about a month ago. The nursery that I bought it from gave me directions on how to plant and how to water since it was new.. I did as the directions said and now a month later the leaves are turning yellow and falling off.. Is my tree dying and if not will the leaves that fell off grow back?  Please help with any advice. I paid alot for this tree and I am almost sick that it may be dying.. thanks


Answer
You can check to see if the tree is dead by starting near the top on an upper outer limb and scrape a small bit of bark off the twig. If the color under the bark is green the branch is still alive at this point on the branch. If the color under the bark is not green --brown- the branch is dead at this point on the branch. If brown continue down the branch scraping at intervals until you find green or reach the trunk. If you find green the tree should leaf back out next spring. tree will go through a shock when planted and loose some of their leaves. I would check with the nursery about their policy of guaranteeing the tree will live. IF the time will run out by next spring I would tell them you want to bring the tree back for one that is a live. If the time is after next spring wait and see what develops then.

conk on giant, old oak tree

Question
QUESTION: Jim,

We live in the coastal area of South Carolina and have numerous, very old (200 year range), huge (2 to 3 stories high), oak trees in our yard.  One of the trees had a very large limb removed about 18 months ago by our area's local oak tree expert.  It was healthy, just overhanging the roof of our house, and was removed just as a precaution before the house was placed on the market. Now it seems we have a fungus conk growing out of the tree about 6 feet up. We have been advised to do two things:  1.  trim back the other large limbs on that side of the tree to remove some weight, as well as cable them (there is already cabling and lightning protection very high up, and 2.  fertilize one gallon per every inch of tree diameter to promote more healthy growth.  We are very paranoid about losing this tree as it is the focal point of our yard and absolutely massive.  He does not indication that he would put chemicals on the tree to kill the fungus, nor does he want to fill it with any material if there are hollow spots.  What advice can you give us before we undertake a rather expensive treatment for this precious tree? I do have photos if you have a way to receive them.  Thank you.



ANSWER: Was the limb that was removed hollow or mussy or was the wood attached to the trunk solid? If the limb was hollow this would indicate that the decay fungi that seem to be growing in the woody part of the tree has grown up the trunk a distance.  The conk is the fruiting body of a decay fungi. These fungi enter the tree through a wound and over many years can decay the inside woody cells of the tree. This can make the tree hollow. I would say that the decay fungi has decayed the wood up to at least the 6 foot level on the trunk.  



This is not mean that the tree is a hazard and will fall at any time. trees can and do live many many years as hollow trunks. The decay fungi only infects dead cells and will not kill the tree. The strength of the tree may suffer over time--if upper limbs start to break and if these are hollow than the decay fungi has grown up into the crown and the hazard maybe the fallen limbs. There is a very low chance that the entire tree will fall over. Unless you are having large limbs break and these are hollow I would not cable or prune back the limbs. Pruning the limbs back can cause an entry point for more fungi.



I would fertilize the tree--I recommend that you use 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. IF you fertilize just before a rain storm you will not need to water. Do this now and again in the spring and then once a year.



I agree that decay fungi can not be treated with a fungicide. It is like a decayed tooth you would have to excavate all the decay down to good wood and this is impossible with a tree since the decay is inside the tree trunk. Filling any hollow spots is not recommended.



Sometimes it is difficult to see all about a tree without being there.  I think based on what I understand I would fertilize the tree and watch it over the years. And if the upper branches start to break off from the decay fungi I would then think about cabling the branches but I do not thing I would prune the branches back. The cabling would keep the branch from dropping and landing on something. The pruning would do not harm than good.



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------



QUESTION: To answer your question:  the limb that was cut was healthy.  Did you mean to say that the pruning would DO MORE harm than good?  We are not having limbs to fall.  I have several great photos that I can show you.  Is there a way to attach photos?


Answer
The trimming back of the limb can cause the entire limb to die. IF any limbs are pruned I would take them off back to the trunk or at least back a major large limb. Since the limb that was cut was healthy the tree sounds like it does not have much decay up into the trunk so I would just fertilize and leave it alone. You can attach a picture to a question--the attach "button" is near the bottom of the question screen.

Liquid Amber tree

Question
The roots of our liquid amber tree have been getting higher and higher in our yard the past 12 yrs.  My husband has chopped out some over the years and we have had it pruned once (a point of contention between my husband and myself) they ruined the beautiful shape.  The tree is old and huge.  In the last month or so we have found 2 branches lying on the yard and I think it is not as full and healthy as it has been in the past.  I live in Bakersfield, CA  Thank you for any help you may have regarding our once beautiful tree.


Answer
If the roots are starting to be exposed above the ground you can add sand over the roots as long as the sand is not more than an inch or 2 over the roots. I would fertilize the tree with 10-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. Fertilize just before a rain storm and you will not have to water it in. This will increase the health of the roots and in turn the foliage.

willow tree

Question
I planted a weeping willow 4 days ago and i have watered it like i was told to and some of the leaves are dying and curling up in the sun and getting crunchy. what did i or am i doing wrong. I live in zone 3 and got the tree from a great nursery


Answer
This is not unusual for newly planted trees. They can go through a shock from the planting and lose some of their foliage. If you have not done so mulch around the tree with not more than 3 inches deep of organic mulch (pine straw is good) not piled up on the trunk. The top of the rootball of the tree should be level with the ground surface if planted correctly. I would water every other day with 1 inch of water--place a pan under the tree and turn the sprinkler on and when the pan has 1 inch of water in it stop. Do this for the first month then every third day until the weather cools off. Then I would water once a week if it does not rain.

Weeping Willow with small red buds on trunk

Question
Good evening Jim.  So in reading your post about what could potentially be the cause of the small tiny red buds on the trunk of my weeping willow, yellow dropping leaves, what is the cure or treatment to get my tree back on a safe path?  I've contacted the lawn chemical treatment business and am waiting for them to call me back to ask the question what do they use as noted in your post explanation.  I hope there is a treatment or am I going to lose the tree in your opinion if that is what the problem is?


Answer
It could be scale insects. take your finger and see if the "bumps" can be squashed. Scale insects live in a "shell" similar to a turtle. They suck the plant juices from the plant. It also could just be the tree is sprouting new growth from the trunk--which is common for .   If the bump will squash the scale insect can be controlled with an insecticide. Apply an insecticide called Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect Control to the soil around the tree and the roots will take the insecticide to the twigs and foliage and kill the scale when they suck the plant juices. You can also spray the tree foliage and branches with an insecticide called Orthene. IF the tree is too large to reach use the Bayer product. Check with your local nursery for these products.



If the bimps do not have anything in them and are solid these are just the buds of the willow and is normal.

Swedish columer aspen tree

Question
Hi I planted 2 Swedish columer aspens in my back yard beside my deck. They have been doing really well for the last 2 yrs until august when i noticed the one has ants on it and now hornets are all over it. I don't know why? The top looks good but the bottom leaves are all full of holes. What should I do. thanks for your time


Answer
Ants and wasps will be attracted to a substance called honeydew. There are insects that suck the plant juices from the plant and secrete a substance called honeydew-this is high in sugar content and sticky. If the foliage is sticky and appears wet this is what the problem is. I would treat the trees with an insecticide called Orthene. This is sprayed on the foliage and twigs and will kill the aphids and/or scale insect that are sucking the juices. IF the tree is too large to reach with the spray use a insecticide called Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub Insect control, This is applied  to the soil around the tree and the roots will take it to the foliage and kill the insect as they feed. Here is a web link to this product. Check with your local nursery for these products. http://www.bayeradvanced.com/product/Tree-Shrub-Insect-Control/concentrate.html

Magnolia tree fungus?

Question

Magnolia tree

Hi Jim,



I have a 2 part question about a Magnolia tree in my yard. I live along the Gulf Coast of Florida. The home we bought a few years ago came with a Magnolia tree, but I do not know the age of it. It is located in the back yard (south).



The first part of the question is: is this fungus (?) Lichens? If not what is it?



The second is: the tree is producing flower buds but only a few seem to flower. Most of them simply fall to the ground. Is there something that can be done to make more of the flower bud bloom?



Thank you!

Answer
These are lichens and are not a health problem to the tree.



More likely, the plant is missing some essential trace elements, or micronutrients. Call your local cooperative extension service to test the soil and help you determine the right balance. In my experience, nitrogen-rich soils encourage trees to produce more vegetative growth and fewer flowers, and the alfalfa mulch you're using is rich in nitrogen. I bet you need more phosphorus and micronutrients to stimulate root growth and flowering. Use a fertilizer called super-phosphate (0-20-0) and your recommended micronutrients. I would add about 1 lb per inch of trunk diameter scattered around the tree and watered in good. A fertilizer called Holly tone will work well. Use it this fall and again in the spring.

Check with your local nursery/garden type store for a flowering fertilizer.  

Weeping Pusssy Willow

Question
Hi Jim,



At a local nursery they have a weeping pussy willow that has a nice umbrella shape to it and is about 5 feet tall on the trunk.



Near the top of the trunk there is an oval hole about half an inch in diameter or a bit less than that. There are also horizontal cracks in the bark near the top. I am guessing the cracks are from the graft?



How invasive are the roots on this plant?



How dirty is this tree with spreading debris and babies all over?



Anything else you feel I should know about this tree, please let me know. They are selling this tree to me for $30.



Many thanks!



Mike


Answer
Willows are invasive as far as septic tanks and lines go. They should not be planted within 20 feet of lines and/or tanks. They seek water and the roots will get into pipes that may leak water. they are not a problem with foundations, driveway etc. I would plant then in an open space where the soil is not dry--the spread at maturity is about 20-30 feet so they need room to grow to get the usual weeping shape.

They are not messy except for the leaf drop in the Fall. and usually do not send out sprout from the roots.

I would ask the nursery about their return policy. Since they tree is damaged it might not live and if so can you get your money back. Dig the new hole about twice the size of the rootball and fill with good top soil or potting soil, Remove the burlap and wire from the root before you plant it and plant it so the top of the rootball is at ground level. Mulch around the tree with not more than 3 inches deep of organic mulch not pile up on the trunk. This will help hold moisture around the roots. Do not fertilize for the first year.

Fig tree

Question
When is the best time ti plant a fig tree? What is the best to plant in Alabama? Thank you


Answer
When To Plant. Plant fig trees while they are dormant--spring is the best time. In warm areas, bare-root trees can be set out in fall or early winter, but where late spring frosts are common, it is best to set them out in spring after the danger of hard winter freezes has passed. Container-grown plants should always be planted in the spring.



Where To Plant. For best growth, fig trees need full sunlight and freedom from competing trees and shrubs. Fig tree roots will not damage masonry foundations of buildings or steel pipe, but they may damage clay sewer pipe; therefore, do not plant fig trees within 25 feet of clay sewer pipe or over septic tank drain fields. If you plant fig trees in a lawn, keep a 2- to 3-foot area around each tree free of grass for a year or two until the tree becomes established. Do not plant fig trees close to rapid-growing plants such as mulberry, chinaberry, hackberry, elm, black locust, and privet because these plants will use water and nutrients needed by the fig trees.



Soils in orchards and old gardens generally are heavily infested with nematodes. Treat such soils with a nematicide or with soil solarization before planting. Young trees must be protected from nematodes if they are to get a good start.



How To Plant. Fig trees from nurseries may be grown in the field and sold bare root, or they may be grown in containers and sold while still in the pot. Before planting a bare-root tree, prune off about one-third of its top unless it was topped by the nursery. Container-grown plants can be transplanted without being pruned; they need only to be removed from the container and set in the planting hole. Set fig trees in the planting hole so they are 3 or 4 inches deeper than they were in the nursery. Fill the hole with soil, and water heavily enough to settle the soil around the roots.  

trim fruited malberry tree

Question
I have a fruited mulberry tree and when I do have to trim a large limb 1" or larger I always leave about 1 inch of the trimmed limb on the main limb. But when I do trim the cut area saps and drips to the ground or on my deck. Is there a way to stop the sapping and dripping?


Answer
Pruning of Mulberry trees should be done in the dormant months (after the leaves have dropped in the Fall or winter). When done during the growing season the sap is still flowing and will exude out the wound. Also do not leave the 1 inch stub--cut it back to about 1/4 inch of the trunk--not flush but as close as you can get it. This will allow the wound to heal over. The stub will slow the process down greatly. The dripping will stop on its own when the sap stops flowing this fall/ winter.

Live Oak in Texas

Question
We had a long hot summer and trees were watered regularly.  All are doing fine with the exception of the live oak in the back yard.  A month ago my girlfriend used automotive primer to dress the wounds left by pruning this tree. It rained for a week off and on and a week later I noticed that about half of the leaves on the tree were dried up and dead looking.  Could this be from the dressing she applied to the wounds.  There were only 3 or 4 limbs that were cut where the paint was applied could this have damaged the tree to the point of killing it?


Answer
No the wound dressing would not have effected the foliage of the oak. The hot dry weather followed by the heavy rainfall could cause some of the leaves to drop. As long as there are still green leaves especially near the ends of the branches it should be ok. More of a reaction to the stress of the weather not the wound dressing.

italian cypress

Question
Hello Jim



is it safe to put italian cypress on a very steep slope 12 feet of it at 45 degrees before leveling at top and bottom to form adjacent lots at different heights. There is sandstone below the surface. Will the tap root be able to penetrate sandstone that it runs into? Will a root system capable of supporting the tree at mature heights be able to establish itself?



I thank you in advance ..



regards,



George


Answer
It will depend on the depth of the soil over the sandstone. Cypress will have a fairly shallow root system and will be in the first 2-3 feet of soil (not a tap root). If the soil is thinner then the roots will not be able to support the tree as it gets larger and the wind will blow it over. It does not sound like there is enough soil on the slpoe to support trees I would use another ground cover. Sorry.

weeping willow

Question
my willow plant is two years old and is thriving, i'm worried I have planted it to near the house. but my question is when is the best time to up root it and do the rooots bare down or spread wide.


Answer
Weeping willow trees will have a spread of about 20-30 feet when mature. Which will mean the branches will grow out about 10-20 feet from the trunk. They need space to give them the weeping form. The roots are a problem to septic lines and tanks but are not a problem with foundations phone lines etc. The main problem will be the limbs rubbing on the house when it gets larger.   I would move it away from the house so it can retain its weeping form.



Deciduous plants may be moved in the spring as soon as the frost is out of the ground, up until the time when new foliage is partly unfurled. In the fall, they may be planted once the leaves start to turn color up until the ground freezes.



When you want to dig up a tree or shrub for transplanting, retain as much of the root system as possible. Deciduous trees  can be successfully moved only if a ball of soil is left around the roots. The exposed roots should be protected with moist burlap or newspaper or with polyethylene sheeting. Every effort should be made to reduce root exposure to wind and sun, keeping the ball as moist as possible. It's best to prepare the hole before digging up the tree you wish to move.



Size of the root ball and size of the hole:



For deciduous trees and shrubs the soil ball should be:



Width = 9-12 in. in diameter/every 1 in. of tree diameter

Depth = 6 in./every 1 in. of tree diameter



For example: A tree trunk 2 inches wide would need a soil ball of 18-24 inches wide and 12 inches deep.





Dig the new hole twice the size of the rootball and as deep and fill with good top soil and mulch around the tree with not more than 3 inches deep of organic mulch not piled up on the trunk. This will help hold moisture around the roots.  

tranplanting shoots

Question
I have towering poplars around my yard for shelterbelt ,there are alot of shoots coming up in different places and I would like to dig them up and transplant them in places where some of the bigger poplar have died. How do I go about doing that ?


Answer
It will depend on if the sprout have there own root system or are sprout from the roots of the parent tree. Try digging a couple and see if they are attached to a larger root--if not they can be dug and transplanted. Transplanting will work best if you wait until after the leaves have fallen from the hardwood trees. Then dig the sprouts up with soil attached and plant in a hole twice the size of the root system and fill with good top soil. You can wait until just before bud break in the spring to do this. But the fall is best.